How To Hair
spoiler alert: there's a lot more to haircare than just washing...
We all want long luscious locks, but how in the world do we achieve that?
My hair journey is one that I've been on for a while now. I've been working towards making my hair as healthy as it can be. I've learned that the state of my hair usually is a big tell to the state of my mind. I always feel so much more put together when my hair is under control, but it's about more than that.
Over time, I've put my hair through a lot. I got a perm one time, I bleached it for like a year and a half, I've used no-no products, I've fried it with a straightener for half of high school, and when I worked at CFA...let't just say my hair drank more lemonaid than it did anything else.
Just like the rest of my body, I've wanted to learn how to actually take care of my hair, so we're going to break down what I've learned and why!
1 Say "Bye Bye" To Scalding Hot Water
Ladies, we all know that we love those showers that are so hot they make you look like a tomato when you get out, but this is a massive NO NO for your hair!! Super hot water strips every last bit of moisture right out fo your hair and drys it out faster than an egg cooking on asphalt in the middle of a South Carolina July. It weakens your root, burns your scalp, and can make your hair extremely brittle and prone to breakage.
I've learned to use lukewarm water when working with your hair in the shower. This helps to open up the cuticle and get all of the build-up out of your hair without damaging it too much. When you rinse out your conditioner however, use cold water (I know ugh) to seal in the moisture and close up that cuticle to prevent further damage.
None of us want to take lukewarm/cold showers - so here's how I do it. 2 words: Claw Clip. The first thing I do in the shower, on wash days, is wash my hair. I make sure the water is lukewarm, wet, wash, rinse, condition, and then stick that sucker up in a claw clip. I let the conditioner sit in my hair throughout the rest of my shower and then the last thing I do is turn the water to cold and rinse the conditioner. This helps to not only make sure my hair is only exposed to the right temperatures, but also prevents over shower products from getting into it.
2 Shampoo Top, Condition Bottom
First things first, one shampoo is not enough. In the same way that we're taught to double cleanse our skin, we need to be doing the same to our hair. I don't know about y'all, but there is so much dry-shampoo build up in my hair when wash day comes around. One was is not enough to breakup all of this product and wash it down the drain. Secondly, ONLY SHAMPOO YOUR ROOTS! I've done this for a while now but honestly never understood why I needed to do it, so I did some research. I learned that because the ends are older and dryer than your roots, they get dehydrated a whole lot faster. You're only supposed to shampoo your ends if there is a TON of product build up on them (ex. gel, strong hold hairspray). When you rinse the shampoo from your scalp, gravity pulls those suds down and through your ends, giving them the only cleanse they need on a regular basis.
For conditioner, applying it to your roots won't necessarily hurt your hair in anyway, but it will most definitely weigh it down. Plus, the hair by your roots doesn't need as much extra moisture because that's where all your natural oils sit as well as it's newer and healthier hair.
3 HEAT. PROTECTANT.
Whether it's a blow dryer, curling iron, straightener, waver, crimper, etc. There is heat involved and your hair needs your help to protect it. Heat protectant does not completely stop head damage, but it does a heck of a job reducing it. How? It creates a barrier between the styling tool and the hair. It seals in moisture and helps to eliminate frizz. It smooths the cuticle and makes hair smooth and soft.
Even if you don't use styling tools...disclaimer - sunlight is hot, and UV rays hurt your hair just like they do your skin. Using a heat protectant can help protect your hair from heat in more ways than one, and in my book, it's an absolute must.
4 The 80:20 Rule
If you must blow dry, let your hair air dry about 80%, and then blow dry the last 20%. While this may "just be hot air" to you, it's still damaging.
Have you ever looked at the mouth of your blow dryer? You see those metal pieces that prevent the hair from going into the blow dryer - yep, those get flaming hot...and they singe your hair right off. This is why it's suggested to use a diffuser of some sort on the end of your blow dryer to prevent your hair touching those metal pieces.
Blow drying the last 20% of your hair allows you to style it and smooth it while exposing it to less heat and less time in the heat.
Also, use the low setting.
5 Wash Schedule
News Flash: washing your hair everyday makes it greasier. You see, the oil in your hair may be an inconvenience to you, but it is supposed to be there. Your hair needs those natural oils to stay hydrated and healthy - just like our bodies need water. Washing daily rids your hair of those oils which can lead to overproduction which equals greasier hair faster. Not to mention washing daily also dries out your hair, increases styling = increased heat usage, and it's sooooo much more expensive because you're buying double the shampoo.
For my ladies with chemically treated hair (color, bleach, perms, etc.) You should probably be washing even less often. Washing your hair fades your color and causes brassiness in blondes much faster. Also, if your hair is chemically treated, it's also probably dryer than normal, meaning it needs those oils to rehydrate.
6 Invest In a Silk/Satin Pillowcase
I sound crazy - but I'm not, and I'm actually right.
Your cotton/polyester pillow case is like sandpaper against your hair. The weight of your head basically grinds your hand against the pillow case causing friction that leads to breakage. Your pillowcase is also drinking the moisture right out of your hair (who knew your bed sheets were thirsty too???).
Using a silk/satin pillowcase is to your hair as aquaphor is to your face. There's a massive decrease in friction and moisture loss from your regular sheets.
In all honesty, I just made this switch about a week and a half ago - and I have most definitely seen a difference. Less frizz, my styling stays longer, and my hair feels soft and is detangled when I wake up in the morning.
7 Regular Trims
You've heard it before and I'm going to say it again: REGULAR TRIMS ENCOURAGE HAIR GROWTH. Why? Because as your hair grows down from the root, your split ends keep cutting up the hair. This leads to breakage that continues higher and higher up the hair which leads to the appearance or, and the reality of, thinner and frizzier hair.
Your split ends are also the cause of your tangles. Regular trims can help to prevent those tangles as well as prevent the breakage caused by you ripping a brush through your hair.
Bonus Tip: brush from the bottom up, get the tangles out before you brush from your roots to your ends - this will prevent breakage and the ripping out of your hair. If it feels like your hair is being ripped from your head...it's because it is.
8 Use The Right Products
Everyone's hair is completely different, so you're going to have to find what works for you. By biggest piece of advice: ask your stylist. They went to school and spent the time+money to be educated about hair health - so trust me they know what they're talking about. This is also a sacrifice though. I hate to break it to you, but you're not going to find the right hair products for the same price as your $5 Wal-Mart shampoo.
As I've been learning more about hair health, and doing my research, I've developed quite a hair routine that has made my hair so soft, smooth, and healthy - even while being chemically treated. I don't advise copying this product list exactly, because your hair is so much different than mine, but feel free to research some of these products to see if they'll work for you!
Here's the order I use them in and the links (below are pics!!):
Kristen Ess Soft Shine Beach Wave Spray (Post Styling)
You can see that I love my girl Kristen Ess! She's affordable, a salon-quality brand, available at Target and Ulta, and honestly the best products I've ever used! She's also got lines for curly hair and thinner hair as well as top-notch purple shampoo and conditioner!!
Alright ladies, that's all I've got for you! One last reminder - your hair is a part of your body and ultimately the condition of your hair stems from the condition of your body's health. At the end of the day, it has nothing to do with having hair that looks good, but instead is about taking care of yourself. Make your hair routine fun so that you enjoy wash day!
Have the best week ever, I'll see you guys Thursday!
ttyl,
Carrie <3
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